Forest of Dadia

Forest of Dadia

Dadia is a quiet, secluded village of 200 families at the edge of the extensive forest covering the southeastern foothills of the Rodopi mountain range which face the narrow plain of the Evros river stretching to the sea. It lies north of Alexandroupolis, in the province of Evros in Thrace, the northeastern most part of Greece. As with most of Thrace, the area of Dadia is alive with historic memories. The earliest signs of human presence are the meglithic monuments and petroglyphs in the Derion area dating back to the 11th or 10th century BC.
Local legends name as the first inhabitants of Dadia people fleeing from the great city by the Evros river after a terrible epidemic. Indeed the remnants of a still unidentified ancient city can be seen on a hillside overlooking the confluence of the stream Mangazi and the Evros river. The name Dadia is much more recent of course, derived from dadi (the name in Greek of the resinous inner core of the pines, used as a fire starter), an obvious allusion to the vast pine forests of the area and the main occupation of the people, woodcutting.

Near the village, on the top of the steep hill of Gibrena, stand the ruins of a Byzantine castle. It was built by the emperor Justinian and was part of a long chain of fortifications placed in strategic locations to prevent the southward movement of raiders. On the sides of the hills are the openings of several caves, still unexplored, used as hiding the openings of several caves, still unexplored, used as hiding places by the armed groups fighting against the Turks, the ‘Kleftes’, and, more recently, by Resistance groups fighting against the Germans. The castle and the people active around it have been embroidered in legends and feature in many folk songs.
 Another prominent historic monument is the Monastery of Dadia, located near the main highway a few kilometres before the village.A carved marble slab on a fountain dated 1727 is also mentioned in old texts, suggesting an even earlier origin. Built on a site possibly used since classical times according to archaeological findings, the monastery was destroyed and rebuilt several times through the centuries. All remains of the older buildings were unfortunately destroyed during the Balkan Wars, in 1912, and the church was not rebuilt until the early 1950s.
In the villages of the area, including Dadia, live many families of Sarakatsani. The Sarakatsani are transhumant shepherds found scattered all over Greece but mainly in Thrace, Epirus, Macedonia and Thessaly. They are considered descendants of primitive pastoral tribes that have existed in these parts of Greece since pr-classical times; their dialect retains many archaic terms and the motifs of their decorative art are distinctly similar to the geometric style of pre-classical Greece. Having never depended on an agricultural economy their lice was dominated by the seasonal movements determined by the needs of their large herds. Their hard life led to the development of a complex set of social values and customs centered on the importance of the patrilineal family and their honor.
 As recently as two or three decades ago they continued their nomadic way of life and it will become obvious as we progress that their herds played a significant part in the evolution of the forest morphology and character. Nowadays most have settled down in the villages and many have turned to other means of making a living. The Pistolas family in Dadia, however, still maintains the largest herds of sheep and cattle and their traditional circular sheep-folds can be seen at Katrantzides.
In the 1950s and 1960s, Greece underwent a significant population movement from the rural areas towards the big cuties. This was more pronounced in the most distant and undedeveloped provinces and the area of Dadia was no exception. During this period several villages lost many of their inhabitants and with them their bitaity and capacity for growth.
Between 1961 and 1971 the total population of the Evros province decreased by 7,5%. Agricultural productivity decreased as well and the numbers of livestock fell dramatically.
After the Turkish invasion of Cyprus in 1974 and the resultant tension between the two countries, the Greek government decided to strengthen this strategic border region with a multitude of programs aiming to increase local income, to improve the quality of life, to provide the appropriate infrastructure fore further development and to stem the flow of depopulation. Those programs were in part financed by the World Bank as the ‘Evros Development Project’.
Even on the basis of this brief summary of Thracian history one will hardly fail to realize why the total population of the Evros province remained both small and clustered in the villages and towns even into 1970s.
Until then land use had remained mild and limited over a long time, so human influence on nature had not caused the exhaustion of the landscape we commonly see in the centuries around the Mediterranean. On the contrary, it had enhanced the already large dibersity of biotopes existing there.
This special character of the Evros region had long been recognized, and with it international importance for wildlife, especially for large birds of prey and waterfowl. The area lies at the junction of the European and Asian fauna regions and along one of the major flyways for migratory birds in the West Palearctic (a geographical region that includes Europe, extending from the Arctic circle and the Atlantic to the Caspian Sea and the Urals).
There, in the old forests and rocky areas of the hills and mountains, existed suitable nesting habitat in proximity to favorable prey habitat in the forest openings, nearby lowlands and the delta, along with an abundance of prey species, particularly during migration.
Because of the small and clustered population, inaccessibility, military control and low exploitation of natural resources human disturbance of nature and wildlife had been almost negligible even into the nature and wildlife had been almost negligible even into the 1970s. The combination of those determinants contributed to the evolution of a complex ecosystem with an amazing diversity of species, an ecosystem unique in the whole of Europe that supported an exceptional number of breeding raptor species, many of them now endangered, with a spectacular nesting reaching 160 pairs of 21 species within 180Km2, mainly in the Dadia-Soufli-Lefkimi forest complex.
 After 1974 the impact of accelerated development under the ‘Evros Development Project’ was strongly felt in the delta. Large tracts of riverine forest were destroyed and land reclamation for agriculture along with canalization and taming of the Evros river permanently altered the ecosystem. Dams in neighbouring countries that reduced water flow in Evros river further aggravated the situation creating problems of water shortage that have become increasingly acute in recent years.
Adverse effects were also evident in the forest areas. Reafforestation projects were initiated, opening up the aged woods for commercial exploitation; this exploitation was too rapid and led to the loss of most mature trees with resultant changes in form and structure of the woodlands.
Oakwoods on poor soil were cut down and replaced by pine monocultures destroying invaluable nesting habitat in the process. Simultaneously, destruction of prey habitat in the lowlands and the delta through scale enlargement of agriculture, severely endangered several species.
Areport by B. Hallmann, compiled in 1979 for the National Council for Physical Planning and the Environment of the Ministry of Coordination, with support from IUCN/WWF, prompted the Greek government into action and, in 1980, a nature reserve was created in the Dadia area by joint ministerial decision.
The reserve consists of two core areas under strict protection, where most human activities are prohibited except for traditional land uses, 6400 and 800ha. In size respectively, surrounded by 39000 ha. of buffer zone.
In 1985, Helmer and Scholte reported the findings of their study on the herpetofauna of the Evros region and the Dadia reserve in particular, stating that species occurrence and population densities are unique in Europe. They called for enlargement and better management of the protected area as well as inclusion in a European network of biogenetic reserves.
In 1987, with financial assistance from the European Community, the Greek government undertook several management projects beginning with the recruitment of two wardens, from the village of Dadia, the appropriation of a 4WD vehicle, blocking of some forest roads and signpostingof trails to be used by visitors.
Since lack of carrion was accepted as an important factor responsible for the decline of vulture populations, a suitable site was selected and fenced–in to serve as a secure feeding area. The wardens deliver carcasses and offal thus ensuring a regular food supply for the birds which has significantly contributed to the marked increase in their numbers.
An observation hut was built on a hilltop overlooking the feeding area, offering spectacular views of vultures and eagles and a neat wooden lodge was constructed near Dadia to serve as a visitor information center. Plans were also laid out for a guest house that has recently been completed.